AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid (Boot Lid) from Bimmian.com

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A couple days ago we mentioned how excited we were to introduce to you how AutoCarbon has introduced a new line of Carbon Fiber Hood and Trunk lids for BMW vehicles.

These parts were brilliant in their design, finish, fitment, quality, etc.  We have added them to our site and to our project car.  Check out

http://www.bimmian.com/CHD for the hood (bonnet) and

http://www.bimmian.com/CTR for the trunk (boot) lid=

The trunk lid we are installing features a CSL style lip on it.  This gives such a great look to BMWs.  It should be shaped like this from the factory on all the M3s

The unboxing…..

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Lets start by using a trim removal tool to remove the roundel emblem from the original trunk lid.  This one has adhesive under it unlike the roundel on the front of the car, so the removal takes a little extra time.

Shown are carbon fiber BMW roundel overlays found at http://www.bimmian.com/ROU

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We then removed the license plate.

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… and removed the grommets that were helping to hold the roundel emblem onto the car.

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… and the license plate lights (these by the way crazy bright weisslicht LED housings.. check them out at http://www.bimmian.com/LPL or search the blog for when we installed these)… remove these by slipping a flat screwdriver or a trim removal tool under the left side of the light.

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Then use screwdrivers to remove all 10 (or so) clips that hold the trunk liner onto the trunk lid.

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Press in on the tab and pull out the wire for the emergency trunk release handle, then pull away the carpet liner.

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Unscrew 3 bolts holding the closure mechanism to the trunk lid.

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Remove the screws holding the locking mechanism to the trunk lid.  This was tricky, to finally remove but keep working on it, youll get it.

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Use a ratchet to remove the nuts holding the reverse lights onto the trunk lid.   One nut on each light (which holds a bracket to secure the light),  and the light tilts outwards and slides out.

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Unclip and remove the trim around the locking cylinder.

Not shown: remove the trunk release button (visible from outside near license plate lights).

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Pull towards yourself to release the clips on this plastic trim on the inside of the trunk.

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Remove the wires which are threaded through this trim piece.

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All over the trunk will be wires.  Taped to the wires are little clips which fasten themselves into holes on the back of the trunk lid. Pull outwards (reach behind the sheet metal to squeeze the backside of the clips where possible) to remove.

Once all are removed, pull out the grommet which protects the wires as they run from the car into the right side of the trunk lid.  Then pull the wires all the way out so they are all now dangling and no longer attached to the trunk (dont worry, they arent as bad as you think to put back in).

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Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the trunk to the car.  If you loosen but do not remove the top two, you can use those to hold the trunk for you as you remove the rest, then just simply lift the trunk off.  No help needed.

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Put the two top bolts into the new trunk partway by hand, then lower the new trunk onto the hinges.   To get good alignment for the trunk try to position the bolts in the same place on the hinge as they were when the car left the factory.  You can tell where this is because the hing will be bare metal where it didnt get painted because of the presence of the bolt.

At this point close and open the trunk several times fiddling with the positioning of the bolts as necessary until the trunk has equal gaps on both sides of the trunk.

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put the wiring harness into the hole on the bottom side of the trunk.  Straighten out the wires as best you can and push them up through the trunk as straight as possible.  You will then be able to see the wires through some of the holes in the back side of the trunk.  Once you see the wires reach in with your fingers or a pair of pliers to grab the wires and pull the rest of them through.    Run the wires along the back side of the trunk lid running each wire to approximately where it was when you removed it.

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Where necessary poke out the wires for the lights and release button through to the outside of the trunk lid.

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Reinstall the tailights in the opposite way of removal.  Remember clip the light to the outside of the trunk lid, then tilt it down to the trunk lid.

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Use ratchet to secure the nut.

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Plug in then clip the trunk release button into place.

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Tilt the back end in first then clip the front edge in.

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On the original trunk lid, drill out the plastic rivets which hold on the two closure adjustments on the edge of the lid.

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Then use rivets or screws as you prefer to secure these adjustment posts to the new trunk lid.  We used rivets as we had a rivet gun handy.

Reinstall the closure mechanism to the trunk lid.  AT THIS POINT you must do trial opening/closings of the trunk to make sure it latches.  Ours initially didnt latch.  We had to remove and reinstall the closure mechanism pulling it towards the rear part of the vehicle.  In our case, it was sitting too far forward and JUST missing out by a fraction of an inch from being able to grab the closure bar to lock the trunk. Moving it literally 1/32″ made the difference between closing and not closing.  You may also need to adjust where the trunk connects to the hinges to slide the entire trunk outwards a little more if this doesnt help.

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Reinstall the carpet + emergency grab-handle and the clips that connect the carpet to the trunk lid.

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Reinstalled the roundel and the license plate frame.   Note that the curvature of the back of the trunk is a little different than OEM .. AND the adhesive on the back of the original roundel emblem is not reusable, so use some new double sided tape or butyl tape to attach the emblem to the new trunk lid.  you may need to build up the tape in certain areas of the emblem backside to make up for the change in curvature of the trunk.

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Looks great! we will get some pro photography soon!

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