Category Archives: Interior Modifications

Illustro Is Here!


Bimmian is proud to announce that it is launching all new WeissLicht Illustro LED headlight and fog light bulbs officially starting today!

Illustro LED bulbs are designed to be super compact, fan-less, completely weatherproof and ultra bright in order to ensure you have the brightest and safest drive every single time you get in your BMW. These ingenius bulbs put other LEDs to shame with their revolutionary fan-less design and feature no moving parts or hassle. The final product is a sleek, light weight, perfectly fitting, ultra-compact, super-cool, ultra-bright bulb.

For a limited time only this brand new product will be launching at $119.

You can purchase yours starting today HERE

Illustro is ultra bright.

Illustro is ultra bright.


Watch Our Product Video Here:





Racing Pedals for BMW


Our friends at the racing pedals shop sent us over a custom made gift for our BMW E92 M3 Showcar!!!! Thanks guys!!! Looks awesome as always.

These pedals are made out of high grade aluminum, and can can be customized for aesthetic and racing purposes.

For a great grip, these pedals feature a frosted grid shaped pattern to grip the rubber of your shoes very well.  These pedals also feature an enlarged upper gas pedal for heel-toe shifting.   There’s also a special surprise about the footrest…

For more information, to see the available finish and heel-toe options or to order your very own set of racing pedals for just about any BMW vehicle, please check out


Installation is straightforward.  Just pop the rubber cap off the gas/clutch pedals. and align or clamp the pedal replacement to the vehicle.  Mark where we will need to drill holes in the vehicle pedals, one for each corner of the pedal.  Drill it out, four for each pedal, and use the included fasteners to attach the pedals to the vehicle.


And theres the special surprise on the footrest.  The logo!!!


Looks Great!!!! (Yes, I know, the installation is not done.  Only the top screws were put in at this point.)


AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber and Alcantara Steering Wheel For BMW


So the ///M steering wheel is nice….. but the AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber and Alcantara Steering Wheel is way nicer.

This is one of those products that everyone would get if they just sat in the drivers seat and touched.  The thickness of the wheel is significantly thicker than stock, for a feeling of power and aggression and ultimate control.

It is made of premium materials as well, black perforated leather at the 9 and 3 positions for ultimate grip when racing, real carbon top and lower for an extra cool appearance, and alcantara bottom to accent the alcantara roof found in so many M cars.

With this wheel, driving will never be the same.  Since you are touching it and looking at it all the time, its one of the best modifications you can make to your car.  Get more details or order at

The installation method for installing a steering wheel is VERY similar regardless of which vehicle you are installing the wheel on.    We also have an installation video at for your reference.

in this installation we will also be installing AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel Trim from available at

Lets start the install…. (ignore the fact that the dash is all taken apart, you’ll see why later …… )


Out with the old….  first thing to do is to turn the steering wheel so the wheels are exactly facing forwards, and steering wheel is 100% upright.  Then, remove the negative terminal on the battery.  As we will be working with the vehicle electrics and airbag, its better safe than sorry.  If you decide to ignore this warning, It is important that you do not for any reason turn on your car (even to auxiliary mode) with any of the steering wheel cables disconnected.  This will cause you a trip to the dealer to get your error lights switched off.    And, obviously, don’t drive without an airbag!


First, look on the backside of the steering wheel.  Its more obvious on older cars, but on this e92 M3, its hard to see, there are two tiny little slits in the backside of the wheel.  feel around for them, you will feel a divot around them.  Once you find it, insert a flat-head screwdriver.   Go straight in, and you will feel a compression spring (see pictures later to get a better idea where these are) compress the spring and pull out that side of the airbag.  Do the same for the opposite side and the airbag will release.


pull directly outwards on the airbag to remove.


Release the clips on each side of each of the wires that connect to the airbag, then pull outwards to remove the wires.



Use a torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the ground strap in place.   Then remove the plugs going into the steering wheel column.


Use a torx screwdriver to remove the three bolts holding the airbag mounting structure to the wheel.


Finally, use a ratchet, likely with extension piece to remove the main bolt holding the steering wheel to the car and pull the wheel straight off.20120321-164042.jpg


On the backside of the steering wheel there are several screws holding the trim to the wheel.  Remove those.



Install your new wheel.  You cannot see it clearly in the picture, but you will see a notch on the wheel near the bottom of where the wheel connects to the steering column.  You will see a similar notch on the steering column as well.  Make sure these line up 100% before installing the bolt to secure the new wheel to the car.   (in this example we left the protective packaging on the wheel during installation as not to scratch the wheel.),… by the way, the next few steps I did while the wheel was on the car.  You may find it easier to reassemble all the parts on the new wheel while the car is off the car first.   Other than for airbag installation (which must be last), it doesnt matter which steps you do first.


On the backside of the trim piece, there are the two button modules for operating stereo/cruise control functions from the steering wheel itself.  Remove those from the trim ONLY if you will be replacing your trim with a carbon trim also available from at, otherwise, leave them on the original trim.  Once removed, attach to new trim.


Reattach all wires to the wheel and steering column, and re-affix the airbag mounting plate to the new wheel.


Reinstall the trim as well. Then reconnect the airbag.  Double check all your wiring connections at this point.

Finally, align the airbag up with the holes where it will snap into and push firmly and equally across the entire surface of the airbag to click it into place.


The AutoCarbon steering wheel came with optional stripes to be used to mark a centre line on the steering wheel….. (need info about this?  check this post).  Five stripe colors in 2 different widths each are provided.


I am going to take the thin blue, dark blue and red stripes to put the M colors on the wheel.


I positioned the blue in the centre of the wheel, then the red and light blue on either side of it.   I started the middle of the stripe at the front of the wheel and worked it around to the back so the seam is on the back of the wheel.



Looks great to me.  I can’t wait to get driving!


AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Pedals from


Seeing as we already have the DecalWerks Carbo-noc dash trim, door sills, and a few other accents around the vehicle, I thought bringing some carbon into the footwell may be a cool idea with a set of AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Pedals ( )

Having a grey interior is also pretty cool because the inserts for our black carbon pedals are a very close shade of grey.



(instead of showing you the installation step-by-step, Ill include an installation guide we already made)


After……. We didn’t replace the footrest (yet) since the M footrest is already metal.  I think we should replace it… perhaps in a future post.


Here is a step-back picture of the pedals, and the seats.  I think its a good match.  We will get photos later with a better quality camera so you can see the difference. We can also see the carbon dash trim we wrapped earlier.

The red stripe on the dash trim is just something we were playing with. Not sure if we are going to keep it or not….

What do you think about that red stripe?

What do you think about the pedals?

Do you think we should have used silver carbon?

Do you think we should have gotten Racing Pedals?

Do you think we should have used one of these 3 other styles aluminum pedals?

Give us your feedback!!!

Teaser: Matte Carbon Overlay Door Sils Using DecalWerks Carbo-noc


Loving the look of the DecalWerks Carbo-noc overlay film on the dash ( ) applied in a previous blog post, we got wondering where else we could use this fantastic material.

We noticed the door sills were looking a little dull, so …. why not….



Meh…. could look better.


So, after some mocking-up and careful application, here it is: Matte Carbon Overlay Door Sils Using DecalWerks Carbo-noc

I think it looks fantastic!!

What do you think?

Should we carry this on the site?

Would you buy one?

What cars should we make this for?

Share your ideas!

Carbon Overlaid Interior Trim with DecalWerks Carbo-Noc (3M Di-Noc)


When going out to buy this project car, I really wanted the carbon leather dash trim.   It looks awesome, with its matte carbon look.

Unfortunately, this car didn’t have it, but I knew I could wrap the trim myself for the same look.  I also knew that by using this trim, I could  match the trim on other interior components and it will all look consistent.

I wrapped the trim using a new product from by DecalWerks called Carbo-Noc.  It is nearly identical in every way to the 3M Di-Noc Carbon film that is so popular, except that the Carbo-Noc is available in 5 foot widths instead of just 4 feet with the 3M Di-Noc product.  This makes it ideal for wrapping hoods or roofs where 4 feet of width just isn’t enough.  This product comes in sheets cut to your speicifications before shipping. It is an easy to apply, easy to stretch material that you can use to wrap just about any item.

The material is also thick so it is highly stretchable with heat.  It will also melt just a bit with the right amount of heat so that it can form itself to the shape of the surface you are wrapping.

With some time and patience, even novices can use this forgiving material to wrap just about anything.  When installing, remember that we only need to make sure that the parts we see look perfect, the edges are often covered by the dash after re-installation so this makes the installation even easier.

Check the product out and get more information at





A few “before” pictures.  I think this trim looks really out of place in this interior given that the center console is black.


We start with a (gravity defying?) screwdriver, carefully putting it under the trim, and prying outwards to release the trim pins from the clips behind the dash.


Once the trim is released, this piece is unique in that we have to unplug the wiring from the start/stop button….


And the 4 way flasher/door locks near the central vent.


We do the same for the outside dash trim….


And for the doors.


Once we have this piece started, we can use our fingers to pull it off the rest of the way.


And the rears….


We must take the vents off the trim which is done using a wrench or socket set.


Then unclip the clips which further secure the vents to the trim.  These run along the top and bottom.


And pinch the sides and push forward to remove the start/stop button.


We have our material laid out, ready to wrap our dash trim.


Pieces ready for wrapping.


Begin by cutting out a piece of DecalWerks Carbo-Noc so that it is about one inch larger on all sides than the trim piece itself.  Note that on the ends, where the piece bends and the silver surface wraps around the side, we must leave extra material to cover that.


Peel the backing off the film, and line up the piece so it is centered, and lightly set the piece onto the material.


Flip the piece over and if there are no major wrinkles, press your finger lengthwise along the middle of the material so the center part sticks, then use your fingers to press outwards towards the top and bottom from this point so that the material is stuck across the entire surface.  We are trying to get all the air bubbles out at this time.  If you find you cannot get all the air bubbles or wrinkles out, peel the material back off and try again.  The material can be removed and reapplied many times due to is special adhesives.


Flip the piece over and fold the material around the edges on the top and bottom sides so that it covers part of the back side.  We will leave this on the piece as much as possible as it helps the piece to hold.


Slice the material around any protruding plastic bits that don’t let the material sit flat on the trim.


Trim away any material that is blocking any holes or clips that will be required for re-installation (vent clip holes shown here).


Trim away any excess material that would cover the back side of any holes in the trim.


Now for the corners….. when applying a 2d (material) surface over a 3d (trim) surface, we get problems whenever there are corners.   The material wants to bunch up on the corners.  This is simple to work through with the following directions and patience.

First, as best as you can, fold the material around the bent edge so that the majority of this face is covered.  The corners will get really bunched up at this point.


Cut the material so that you can finish folding down the top/bottom edges of the material.  This cut will be at the place where it bunches up the most, and it will leave flaps of material hanging over the top and bottom of the bent piece of trim. (see next pic for visual)


After trimming.


Cut out a triangle(ish) piece of material from the corner.  Cut the material so that you leave enough such that you can fold over the remaining material to both cover the silver surface on the front side, as well have enough material left over so it can adhere to the back side.


Another example from another piece of trim.    Once this is done, fold the material over, and trim around any obstructions as noted above.


Sometimes its impossible to get rid of wrinkles no matter how many times you try to remove and reapply the material. This happens especially when the material is either convex or concave.  The more convex/concave it is, the worse the wrinkles will be.


In this case use a heat gun (or hairdryer) to slighlty melt the material and then press the air pocket or crease out with your finger.  I recommend experimenting with a scrap piece of material so you can understand how much heat the material takes to melt, and what it will do when it does melt.    This material can sustain high heat, and I have never melted it, however, heat it too much and it becomes uselessly flimsy, or can sometimes stretch the carbon pattern.


Once we have the ends wrapped, we need to cut holes in the material for the vents and start/stop button.


Start by cutting an “X” pattern from corner to corner in the material.  Dont cut all the way into the corners, leave about 1/3 of an inch from the corner.


Use the heat gun to melt the material left uncut in the corners a little bit and then use your finger to push it tightly into the corners.


While the material is still warm + flexible, wrap it around to the back of the trim and adhere it to the back side.  Reheat as necessary.


Trim as we did before so that it doesn’t interfere with clip holes or bunch up too much.  One other thing that I recommend but is not shown, is to use the heat gun to significantly warm all the material along the back side and edges of the trim.  This will cause all the tension in the material to release, then when the material cools, it will form to the shape of the object for a better fit.  This takes the stress of the adhesive as well for a better bond.


Repeat for the other vents and start/stop button.


Reinstall the vents.


Here is another example of how I cut the corners (in this case since there isnt such a dramatic bend in the trim piece, I was able to cut out the corners (the parts that would bunch up) before even wrapping the material around the back of the part.


Another view of the material trimming.


After wrapping around edges is complete.


Repeat this process until all the pieces in your set are done.    What in improvement!


The door after installation (for better pics of installed parts see



Now…. before you look any further…..



Since we are always looking for new and unique ways to modify vehicles, I thought I would play around with some red vinyl as well.  I stuck some vinyl along the bottom of the dash trim pieces (in such a way that it can be really easily removed) sort of like what they are doing in the F30 3 series, coming out soon.


What do you think?   Post your comments!!! Keep it?  Remove it?








7 Piece Colored Roundel Emblem Overlay Kit for BMW


The classic BMW logo… a marque of quality, reliability, and …. unfortunately …. mass production.   Lets make our project car stand out from the millions of other mass-produced BMW vehicles by changing the color of the roundel emblem.

We may change the color later (just wait to see what we are working on for this car…. :) ) but for now, we are going to install our NEW MATTE CARBON FIBER roundels on the car, as we need to take some professional photographs for the website anyway.

These colored roundel overlays are available in your choice of over 40 colors for any BMW vehicle at - 7 Piece Colored Roundel Emblem Overlay Kit for BMW



The original……. lets change it!


The kit comes with a sheet of overlays in any of 40+ colors.  Enough to overlay all the emblems on the entire vehicle!


Simply peel off with a screwdriver or blade, line it up, and stick it on.  The high quality adhesive on the back of the emblems will make them stick for years!


Hood emblem completed!


Trunk emblem completed!


Four wheels completed!


Steering wheel completed!