Monthly Archives: May 2012

AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Shark Fin Antenna Overlay


As you would have seen in our previous blog entries, we wrapped the roof in carbon fiber in DecalWerks Carbo-Noc Carbon Fiber Film.  Blog Post   Product information

But we still had the shark fin antenna that wasnt covered — thankfully, the car was black before wrapping so the unwrapped look of the antenna was not revolting (ugh, imagine if the car was a different color!)

Even though it didn’t look horrible, it didn’t look good — and another excuse to use carbon fiber on the car is cool.  So when we found out that AutoCarbon had just perfected their carbon fiber shark fin antenna overlay, we had to get one for the car.  So here it is:  and here’s the install!

This carbon fiber shark find cover is made of an ultra thin piece of real carbon fiber.  It is made using a process called DRY CARBON FORMING.  This increases quality and tolerances in tight corners and makes for a minimal thickness of the part.  Once installed you would never know this was an overlay.    Get more information or order yours at


No :) It doesn’t install on the trunk lid…



To begin installation start applying some of the included 3M adhesive tape to the backside. Cover as much of it as possible.


Once done, peel off the backing paper (you can still see the transparent double sided tape a little in this picture)


Line it up, and stick it on :)


Looks great!

AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Rear Diffuser for BMW M3


What better way to complete the look of the M3′s rear than with a carbon diffuser.    It gives an aggressive look to an otherwise tame back-end.

In the case of the E92 M3, it really accentuates the quad exhaust and goes great with the other carbon fiber accessories on the car.

These diffusers are available for many BMW models at



Flawless carbon fiber finish.


Great design.


Start by removing the two screws under the bumper holding the bumper to the vehicle.


(To show where we are working)


Fit the spoiler in place roughly.  The spoiler will not be in the exact final place yet, but reinsert the screws back into the bottom of the car.  Dont tighten these screws fully yet as we need some play to shift the location of the diffuser a bit in either direction.


This is how it looks under the car, with the diffuser bolted in place.


On each end, position the diffuser so that it is in the correct position.  Ensure that both of the screw holes in the diffuser have bumper trim behind them where they can be secured.    Even though the diffuser is rigid, it does have some flex in it, so if you need to twist / bend it a little to make it get into the exactly correct position on both sides, this is no problem.   When positioned correctly, use a drill to drill two tiny pilot holes in the bumper through the holes that are already in the diffuser.



Use 4 stainless screws to secure this to your bumper through the holes you just drilled.


Looks awesome!

What an aggressive stance… better pictures to follow

AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Mirror Caps for BMW


The M3 has incredible looking mirrors, but the shape is pretty boring.  I tried leaving them black to contrast the white, it didnt look good.  We wrapped them in matte white like the rest of the car.  That didn’t look good either.

It had to be carbon fiber.

So, AutoCarbon to the rescue — they make awesome stuff by the way — carbon fiber mirror caps it is.

AutoCarbon makes these mirror caps for many BMW models, get the list or order yours at


Here they are.  Flawless weave.


They are made of ultra-thin dry carbon fiber for a very original appearance.  You can hardly tell its an overlay.

We are using the included double sided 3M adhesive tape to attach the cover to the vehicle.  We are covering the inside of the mirror cap with this adhesive tape.


Once the inside is covered well with tape, we remove the paper lining, and fit it onto the car.   (We used more than this amount, just for illustration purposes.


Even though the carbon is rigid, it can bend — we bent it a bit as we were installing it so that the adhesive didnt have a chance to touch mirror in the wrong place before we could get everything aligned.



Looks great! Looks even better in person though.  Better pics to follow!


Lines up with the original mirror cap and follows the lines of the mirror very nicely!




AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Grilles for BMW


One of the most obvious items to change on your BMW is its grile.  The fact that its a shiny grille from the factory just doesn’t make sense.   See my rant in this post

As you could see in that last post that I just told you about, we were torn between putting in all-matte-black grilles and grilles painted in an accent color.  Now that we have added all this carbon fiber to the car, carbon fiber grilles are a tempting addition — so we went for it.

We showed you in this post how to remove the original grilles, so we dont need to see that again…. lets snap in the real carbon grilles from AutoCarbon — which by the way…. are available for just about any BMW model at









Visit to VMR Wheels








AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Rear Roof Spoiler from Bimmian


A roof spoiler is one of those subtle modifications that makes your car just that bit different than everyone eles.  It adds a sporty character to the car.

Bimmian sells these available in pre-painted versions or in real carbon fiber through AutoCarbon at

We have decided to install a carbon fiber spoiler onto the car to go along with the hood / trunk, and other carbon goodies we will be installing in the coming days.


Freshly unboxed.   Our AutoCarbon CF trunk lid makes the perfect photo table :)



First we dry-fit the spoiler to the roof line to get an understanding of how it will fit, where the edges will go and to learn the centering points left-and-right.  Its much easier to do this with an assistant to ensure you place it exactly centered.  Once you have determined its permanent mounting location, apply to the back of the spoiler either a strong adhesive, or butyl tape (used for installing windshields in cars – available at most glass shops) for a very secure but non-permenant installation of the spoiler.


Precisely line up where the spoiler will go while holding it slightly above the glass.


Once satisfied with the positioning, starting from the center outwards, apply pressure to push it down.  Put a heavy bag of rice or potatoes (or multiples) on it to ensure pressure is put on the spoiler as you let the adhesive cure as specified.  Before driving, try to pull up on the spoiler and ensure it is firmly attached so it doesn’t come off while driving.


What a great look!!!!!



Today we’re at Bimmerfest 2012 in Pasadena California. Unfortunately, our project car is back at the office, but we’re down here having a great time getting to meet lots of BMW enthusiasts like ourselves!

Thanks to all our great customers that turned out to say HI to us at the show!

The show just ended, time to take down our booth!

Show pictures to follow :)

AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid (Boot Lid) from


A couple days ago we mentioned how excited we were to introduce to you how AutoCarbon has introduced a new line of Carbon Fiber Hood and Trunk lids for BMW vehicles.

These parts were brilliant in their design, finish, fitment, quality, etc.  We have added them to our site and to our project car.  Check out for the hood (bonnet) and for the trunk (boot) lid=

The trunk lid we are installing features a CSL style lip on it.  This gives such a great look to BMWs.  It should be shaped like this from the factory on all the M3s

The unboxing…..





Lets start by using a trim removal tool to remove the roundel emblem from the original trunk lid.  This one has adhesive under it unlike the roundel on the front of the car, so the removal takes a little extra time.

Shown are carbon fiber BMW roundel overlays found at


We then removed the license plate.


… and removed the grommets that were helping to hold the roundel emblem onto the car.


… and the license plate lights (these by the way crazy bright weisslicht LED housings.. check them out at or search the blog for when we installed these)… remove these by slipping a flat screwdriver or a trim removal tool under the left side of the light.


Then use screwdrivers to remove all 10 (or so) clips that hold the trunk liner onto the trunk lid.


Press in on the tab and pull out the wire for the emergency trunk release handle, then pull away the carpet liner.


Unscrew 3 bolts holding the closure mechanism to the trunk lid.


Remove the screws holding the locking mechanism to the trunk lid.  This was tricky, to finally remove but keep working on it, youll get it.


Use a ratchet to remove the nuts holding the reverse lights onto the trunk lid.   One nut on each light (which holds a bracket to secure the light),  and the light tilts outwards and slides out.


Unclip and remove the trim around the locking cylinder.

Not shown: remove the trunk release button (visible from outside near license plate lights).


Pull towards yourself to release the clips on this plastic trim on the inside of the trunk.


Remove the wires which are threaded through this trim piece.


All over the trunk will be wires.  Taped to the wires are little clips which fasten themselves into holes on the back of the trunk lid. Pull outwards (reach behind the sheet metal to squeeze the backside of the clips where possible) to remove.

Once all are removed, pull out the grommet which protects the wires as they run from the car into the right side of the trunk lid.  Then pull the wires all the way out so they are all now dangling and no longer attached to the trunk (dont worry, they arent as bad as you think to put back in).


Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the trunk to the car.  If you loosen but do not remove the top two, you can use those to hold the trunk for you as you remove the rest, then just simply lift the trunk off.  No help needed.


Put the two top bolts into the new trunk partway by hand, then lower the new trunk onto the hinges.   To get good alignment for the trunk try to position the bolts in the same place on the hinge as they were when the car left the factory.  You can tell where this is because the hing will be bare metal where it didnt get painted because of the presence of the bolt.

At this point close and open the trunk several times fiddling with the positioning of the bolts as necessary until the trunk has equal gaps on both sides of the trunk.


put the wiring harness into the hole on the bottom side of the trunk.  Straighten out the wires as best you can and push them up through the trunk as straight as possible.  You will then be able to see the wires through some of the holes in the back side of the trunk.  Once you see the wires reach in with your fingers or a pair of pliers to grab the wires and pull the rest of them through.    Run the wires along the back side of the trunk lid running each wire to approximately where it was when you removed it.


Where necessary poke out the wires for the lights and release button through to the outside of the trunk lid.


Reinstall the tailights in the opposite way of removal.  Remember clip the light to the outside of the trunk lid, then tilt it down to the trunk lid.


Use ratchet to secure the nut.


Plug in then clip the trunk release button into place.


Tilt the back end in first then clip the front edge in.


On the original trunk lid, drill out the plastic rivets which hold on the two closure adjustments on the edge of the lid.


Then use rivets or screws as you prefer to secure these adjustment posts to the new trunk lid.  We used rivets as we had a rivet gun handy.

Reinstall the closure mechanism to the trunk lid.  AT THIS POINT you must do trial opening/closings of the trunk to make sure it latches.  Ours initially didnt latch.  We had to remove and reinstall the closure mechanism pulling it towards the rear part of the vehicle.  In our case, it was sitting too far forward and JUST missing out by a fraction of an inch from being able to grab the closure bar to lock the trunk. Moving it literally 1/32″ made the difference between closing and not closing.  You may also need to adjust where the trunk connects to the hinges to slide the entire trunk outwards a little more if this doesnt help.


Reinstall the carpet + emergency grab-handle and the clips that connect the carpet to the trunk lid.


Reinstalled the roundel and the license plate frame.   Note that the curvature of the back of the trunk is a little different than OEM .. AND the adhesive on the back of the original roundel emblem is not reusable, so use some new double sided tape or butyl tape to attach the emblem to the new trunk lid.  you may need to build up the tape in certain areas of the emblem backside to make up for the change in curvature of the trunk.


Looks great! we will get some pro photography soon!





AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Hoods


AutoCarbon has just released a new line of carbon fiber hoods and trunk lids.

Bimmian has never carried anything like this before, so we ordered up a bunch of samples for our project car to check out their quality and fitment.  We had no doubts that they would be perfect as the stuff that AutoCarbon produces is always top notch… and good news WE WERE RIGHT.

These parts were brilliant in their design, finish, fitment, quality, etc.  We have added them to our site.  Check out for the hood (bonnet) and for the trunk (boot) lid

Lets take a look at the hood fitment…. by the way, this was our first install of a hood, the installation was SUPER EASY.  I couldn’t believe it.   This is totally a DIY installation.


Carbon Fiber Hood, freshly unboxed!


Ready to remove the old hood….


Start by removing the closure latch and hooks from along the frontside of the hood.


3 pieces removed.


Its hard to see in this picture, but next we must get a wrench to loosen the nut portion of the lower shock mounting point.   At this point you need a friend / broomstick to hold the hood up.   Do this for both sides.


We put towels near the bottom of the hood as we didnt want the hood to get damaged once we took it off the hinges.


Remove to bolts from each side holding the hinge to the hood.  Have a friend now support the hood from the back side after you remove the first side as there will be nothing holding the hood to the vehicle as you remove the other side.


The hood is now off the car and set down on bubble wrap to protect the corners.  Use a flat screwdriver to loosen the clip that holds the shock onto the hood.



Use a wrench to remove the mounting bolt from the hood.



Use a screwdriver or trim removal tool to remove the original emblem.


Remove the grommets from the holes in the hood under the roundel.  We will need these to re-secure the roundel to the new hood.


We then lifted the new hood in place and bolted it to the car using the 4 bolts we removed originally.  We closed the hood to make sure everything was aligned correctly.  It wasnt — thats ok though because the chances of getting it lined up right the first time are slim to none.  One tip though to get a good starting point, is to try to position the hood so that when the screws are attached the screws are in the same position on the hinges as they were before — you can tell this because the car is painted after the hood is installed, so try to cover up as much of the unpainted area of the hinges as possible with the bolts.

Loosen and re-tighten and re-close the hood until the alignment looks the same on each side of the hood.


NOTE : its important not to over-tighten any of the bolts that you will attach to the hood.  The hood is made of fiberglass under the carbon fiber.  Nuts are formed into the fiberglass to provide for mounting points for the bolts.  If you overtighten the bolts, however, this will crack the fiberglass around the nuts, and it will become loose or wreck the hood.  Tigheten adequately, but if you hear crackling stop immediately.


Attach the shock mounting points to the new hood.


Attach shock and re-affix metal locking pin that was loosened earlier.


In this case, the hood is created to be compatible with either a E92 or an E92 M3.  For the M3, one of the hood vents is an air intake.  Since the hood is made for both, we must cut a hole using a dremel for the air intake.  To make it easier to see, we put a white sticker over the area and drew out a line.  its really easy to know where to cut because the area to cut is beveled inwards.

NOTE: we are going to talk to autocarbon to see if they can pre-cut these at the factory for M3 owners.


After cutting… a very clean job.


We attached the rubber air intake tube to the air intake box on the engine as opposed to sticking it to the carbon hood.


Re-insert the roundel grommets into the hood.


… and affix the roundel!  The roundel may be loose if the grommets got stretched or otherwise became damaged during removal.  In this case, you may want to use double sided tape or butyl tape to affix the emblem to the hood.

(BMW emblem is shown with Bimmian colored roundel overlays …. see post on forum or )



Racing Pedals for BMW


Our friends at the racing pedals shop sent us over a custom made gift for our BMW E92 M3 Showcar!!!! Thanks guys!!! Looks awesome as always.

These pedals are made out of high grade aluminum, and can can be customized for aesthetic and racing purposes.

For a great grip, these pedals feature a frosted grid shaped pattern to grip the rubber of your shoes very well.  These pedals also feature an enlarged upper gas pedal for heel-toe shifting.   There’s also a special surprise about the footrest…

For more information, to see the available finish and heel-toe options or to order your very own set of racing pedals for just about any BMW vehicle, please check out


Installation is straightforward.  Just pop the rubber cap off the gas/clutch pedals. and align or clamp the pedal replacement to the vehicle.  Mark where we will need to drill holes in the vehicle pedals, one for each corner of the pedal.  Drill it out, four for each pedal, and use the included fasteners to attach the pedals to the vehicle.


And theres the special surprise on the footrest.  The logo!!!


Looks Great!!!! (Yes, I know, the installation is not done.  Only the top screws were put in at this point.)